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A Guided Tour of the Village
by Jean-Pierre DUGENE
[thanks to Jenny GOODEY for the translation]

Version en français

We invite you to walk through our village and to pause at places of interest, you will find the places listed from 1 to 25, see attached map, we advise you to follow them in order to gain a better understanding of the village.

 

1. The location of the village

L'Arriu-MageIt is situated in the flat part of a glacial trough. The Ossau glacier was 300 to 500 metres thick at the level of Bielle. The ridges that you notice to the west, above Bilhères, are moraines (ie glacial deposits). The village is cut in two by the Arriu-Mage , the largest stream. Along it you will see bridges, watering places, fountains, and washing areas. In olden times ten or more watermills bordered this river. The other important axis around which the village is organised is the road. Today it is a main national road, previously it was an imperial one , and even earlier a pilgrim route to St Jacques de Compostelle.

2. Materials used

All around you will notice the houses built out of shingles and stones, materials found in the surrounding area. Only the window and door frames are made of cut stone, often unpolished marble. Timber work used wood from the local forests which were common land areas. The forestry administrators tolerated this supply for constuction and for repairs. Roof covering was almost always slate. There were slate quarries in almost all villages, it was not until around the year 1870 that slate from the Lourdes area was brought in.

3. The door, a symbolic element

Terre fécondeThe old post office and town hall is now residential, it has a front door with a rounded arch in which the keystone is sculptured marble. The craftsman is expressing a wish for prosperity and fertility, at the base of the stone he has engraved a semicircle which represents the earth , above this there are branches of plants indicating the prosperity and fertility of the ground. The sculptor has placed this over the doorway so that as the family pass through the wish is invoked. In several places in the village you can see the same theme, always over a door which was seen as being a strongly symbolic passageway.

4. The religious theme

ChrismeThey believed in God and expressed this belief on their houses. On the keystone of this door there is a snake in the form of a basket handle , it is interlaced with three vertical bars, representing the Christian symbol IHS which means ‘Jesus Saviour of Men’. In the neighbouring villages of Béost and Louvie Soubiron there are phrases like ‘God bless this house’ which confirms the faith of the inhabitants.

5. Maison Sarrailh

Maison SarrailhAgain it is a religious theme which decorates the two main windows, the stones which jut out from the facade serve as supports for an awning. The window frames with mullions are not always the original ones from that house, those with angels carrying coats of arms or phylactery were recuperated from an earlier building.
This house was originally a shop, probably a butcher shop.

6. The former Co-op

Cartouche : bâtisseursThis is a plaque which ties in with the building theme. Dated 1773 you can see a square on the left and a builder’s level on the right, a skittle topped by a crown represents King Salomon, one of the three founders of the builders’ guild. The stone masons moved from place to place to improve their skills and to learn new ones. At this point the builders’ guild had the monopoly on stone cutting. You can see the sculptured marks of passage which the guild obliged its builders to put onto the keystones, lintels and onto the plaques which you find on Ossalois house facades.

6a. The little head

Maison de cagotsAbove the plaque a head identifies that this is a house for ‘cagots’. People used to consider the cagots as former lepers, but this is false. Others think they were the descendants of the visigoth and ostrogoth invaders, and that the name cagot is derived from ‘chien de goths’. Originally they were excluded from worshipping and mixing with the villagers but after a papal bull they were able to gain access to churches and live in segregated areas as they did in the Aspe Valley. They were forbidden to use stone lintels and, as in Jurançon, they were obliged to put a little stone figure of a man over the door. You see this ignominious sign on a dozen or so houses in the valley.

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